Posts tagged Tasting Table

Umamicecream

Whiskey, absinthe, popcorn, lardo.

These ingredients might grace your plate or glass at Adam Fleischman’s Umamicatessen, where boozy drinks and brassy, pork-heavy cooking rule the roost.

As of last week, however, these ingredients are showing off their sweeter sides in various ice cream flavors made by L.A. Creamery. 

Since buying the company nearly three months ago, Fleischman has overseen the addition of a number of flavors that fit the Umami ethos of “more is more is more.” Liquor is featured in many of the pints ($9 each; takeout only), and we aren’t talking smooth booze flavors, the alcohol burned off; you have to be over 21 to buy these ice creams.

The Moonshine, peppered with caramel corn, is overly dominated by the booze’s heat. But L.A. Creamery’s take on Scoops’ Grape Nuts-studded Brown Brown Bread flavor is far more successful. Aptly named Boozy Breakfast, it’s spiked with coffee liqueur, which is sweeter and lower in alcohol than the moonshine and adds a nice, measured burn.  

Pork Phat is the most Umami-like of all, its name referring to the Ibérico pork lardo that flavors it. Accompanied by chunks of Asian pear and a touch of bracing mint, this is a surprisingly mellow flavor, but there’s an undeniable animal funk lurking behind the sweet façade.

Umamicatessen, 852 S. Broadway, Downtown; 213-413-8626 or lacreamery.com

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http://www.tastingtable.com/ecs/10324.htm